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超越特級的一級園: Vosne Romanee 1er Les Malconsorts

#位在勃根地知名Vosne-Romaneeg村的Aux Malconsorts是公認最佳實力的超級級園,擁有石灰岩的土壤、高坡度、東南向陽精彩絕佳的方位,質地堅實、單寧深邃,優雅不失架構的酒體,並且與世界知名特級園La Tache只有一步之隔,因此也有了『小La Tache』之美譽。Allen Meadow認為終有一天Malconsorts將成為與酒神Henri Jayer的遺產Cros Parantoux同樣偉大的葡萄園。Malconsorts之所以沒有成為特級園的主要原因是當時該園的地主幾乎一致拒絕升級,擔憂特級園面臨更高的稅負。

總面積約5.86公頃,僅有6Domaine持有(1.Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot) –2. Domaine Montille3. Domaine Dujac 4. Domaine Sylvain Cathiard 5. Domaine Lamarche6. Domaine Hudelot Noellat ) 釀造出的風格多數柔和、細膩,亦帶豐厚圓潤感。雖然每間酒莊的釀造方式與風格皆不相同,但是釀造出來的Aux Malconsorts幾乎是獲得滿堂彩。

#Domaine du Clos Frantin重量級老牌酒商Albert Bichot旗下四大天王之一,Malconsorts是酒莊最招牌的酒款!葡萄樹齡約35~40年,使用20%~30%的新橡木桶,陳年14~18個月,年產量僅8500瓶。

  1. 2012 Domaine du Clos Frantin Vosne Romanee 1erLes Malconsorts  

  BH 93  ♥Outstanding

Happily here there is no reduction present on the ultra-spicy and floral nose where soft wood frames the ripe aromas of various dark berries and plum scents. There is excellent concentration to the robust and overtly muscular medium weight plus flavors that brim with dry extract on the structured and very firm but not hard finish that displays outstanding length on the mineral-driven backend.

  1. 2013 Domaine du Clos Frantin Vosne Romanee 1erLes Malconsorts  

   BH 91-94  ♥Sweet spot Outstanding

A pungent nose is presently composed of mild reduction and green tea with a few disparate spice elements lurking in the background. The muscular, serious and powerful medium-bodied flavors possess excellent depth of material that coats the palate on the very firmly structured, long and balanced finale. This has everything it needs to be first-rate as the tannins are mature and well-integrated and the balance is impeccable.

 

#Hubert de Montille電影「葡萄酒世界(Mondovino)」中的靈魂人物Hubert de Montille,就是Domaine de Montille的前任莊主,在布根地是十分具有聲望的釀酒師。酒廠自 2005 年起全面採行自然動力種植法,兒子Eteinne 接手後致力於維持父親既有的純淨、優雅風格,同時也希望避免某些年份年輕時略帶緊澀的口感。100% 含梗釀酒,這樣的做法需要高超技術的配合,在勃根地只有極少數頂尖的酒廠如 DRCLeroyDujac 這樣做。整串葡萄放入酒槽不僅有助於提升葡萄酒的風味,帶來鮮花般的香氣,單寧亦更複雜多變,風格更迷人。

  1. 2013 Hubert de Montille Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts

   BH 92-94  ♥Outstanding

This is less obviously floral in character though this element is still quite prominent on the discreet spicy aromas of plum, dark raspberry and sandalwood nuances. There is an equally sleek mouth feel to the broad-shouldered and muscular flavors that possess an exquisite sense of underlying tension and plenty of minerality, all wrapped in a firm, cool, linear and built-to-age finale. I very much like the complexity and the persistence is most impressive.

#Nicolas Potel Roche de BelleneNicolas Potel釀酒的實力與故事是大家耳聞能詳;Roche de Bellene 2008年成立的第二個品牌,Nicolas 將零碎、面積狹小的各個葡萄名園採買小來,並且選用40年以上的優質荖藤釀出拔萃的勃根地酒款,此款Malconsorts也僅有240瓶產量。

  1. 2015 Nicolas Potel Roche de Bellene Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts

  BH 93 ♥Outstanding

A spicy and notably ripe nose conveys notes of red raspberry, cherry liqueur and sandalwood. The caressing, round and quite supple medium weight flavors are not quite soft but they are very pliant before tightening up slightly on the ever-so-mildly austere finish that delivers solid depth and length on the dusty and slightly warm finish. While quite approachable today I suspect that it will progressively close up over the next few years.

活動日期:2019/06/9 ~ 2019/07/8 or 售完為止

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